Travel from Yakutsk to Tomtor via Ust-nera
12/01/2007 - 13/01/2007

A flight of about two hours brings me from Yakutsk to Ust-Nera, a town of approximately 8000 inhabitants, from where the tour continues to Tomtor by car, crossing valleys, mountains and villages having the lowest winter temperatures of the northen hemisphere. This area is also sadly known for gulags and executions during the first half of past century.

(Click on a picture to see a larger version)

Air Yakutia Antonov-AN24 Air Yakutia Antonov-AN24
The Antonov AN-24 used on the route Yakutsk - Ust-Nera. Because of the extreme low temperature, the engines are pre-heated by a truck bringing hot air through a huge pipe.

 

Flying over Siberia
Flying over east Yakutia.

 

Air Yakutia Antonov-AN24 Landing in Ust-Nera

Landing in Ust-Nera at -46 degrees centigrades, over a snow covered runway. The passengers take care of their luggage, loading and unloading it by themselves from the airplane (here there is no risk that your luggage is routed elsewhere by mistake!)

 

Ust-Nera, Yakutia Ust-Nera, Yakutia
Ust-Nera, Yakutia Ust-Nera, Yakutia

Ust-Nera is a town with approximately 8000 people living here. The temperature is holding at -46, but just one week ago it was -62.

 

The ice grows in quantity really everywhere!

 

 

Ust-Nera museum Ust-Nera museum
Gulag memorials in Ust-Nera museum Gulag memorials in Ust-Nera museum

A small, but nice and compherensive museum in Ust Nera. Top-left: the museum from outside. Top-right: a refurbished typical old yakutian house, taken from an ancient settlement. Bottom pictures: this region is also sadly known for the gulags and executions during the first half of past century. It is unknown how many pepole died here exactly, but is estimated that they were from 20 to 110 million, a really horrible thing that must never happen again, anywhere in the world.

 

 

Travel overland in Siberia Travel overland in Siberia

Now the real adventure begins, driving all the way back to Yakutsk, via the Pole of the Cold Oymyakon. The group is made by myself, a guide and two drivers. Of course, we have a satellite phone and lot of safety equipment. The car is very simple, no electronic parts at all... this lets people to fix it quickly anywhere, should something happen. The engine is covered with blankets, to let the heat to accumulate. As there are no gas stations for hundreds of kilometers, additional fuel is loaded into separate small tanks.

 

A gulag memorial in Siberia
A memorial to a gulag on the way to Magadan, where executions were performed.

 

After about 10am the sun comes out, illuminating the tallest mountains.

 

Driving through taiga in Siberia Driving through taiga in Siberia
Driving through taiga in Siberia Driving through taiga in Siberia
At noon, the light of the sun is still very goldish/pinkish. Today is January 13 and, because of the high latitudes, the days are shorter, but with amazing lights.

 

Driving through taiga in Siberia
A truck carrying coal for other villages.

 

Driving through taiga in Siberia

The road in the middle of the forest. Driving here is safe because at these low temperatures the snow is like sand and not slippery at all. Moreover, there are really few cars, maybe you may encounter one every 2-4 hours, or even less.

 

Everything is ice-covered and pastel coloured because of the low sun, even at noon.


 

A yakutian settlement

We stop in this old Yakutian settlement, where there are few people living. We are invited inside a typical home, where a lunch is also offered. It has been one of the most beautiful experience of this trip to appreciate how this people live in such extreme and isolated environment, visiting their homes and eating with them.

 

A cowshed. The heat is generated by the animals itself and kept inside by thick insulation.

 

A yakutian settlement
On the left: an horse. This is a very important animal here and they ability to survive in such low temperatures is really impressive.

 

At about 2:30pm the sun starts to set.

 

Sunset in Siberia
Sunset in Siberia
Sunset in Siberia
At 3:07pm, looking in the opposite direction of sunset.

 

Sunset in Siberia

 

The hotel in Tomtor The hotel in Tomtor
After about 10 hours by car and 350 kilometers, I'm in Tomtor, where I sleep in this nice hotel.

 


 

 

PICTURES

St. Petersburg

St. Petersburg

Three days in St Petersburg are really not enough to appreciate the city and to visit the countless museums, so I have to limit my itinerary only to the Arctic and Antarctic museum, the Hermitage, the Church of Our Savior and the Krassin icebreaker, the ship that has saved the members of Umberto Nobile's expeditions to the North Pole.GO

Novosibirsk

Novosibirsk

Novosibirsk is the Russia's third biggest city and geographical center, as well as the capital of Siberia. I hike in the city with a temperature going from -10 to -18 deg.centigrades, visiting the Opera theatre (the world's biggest!), the Transiberian railway station and the downtown, where ice sculptors were at work.GO

Yakutsk (or Jakutsk)

Yakutsk

Yakutsk is the capital of Yakutia autonomous region and has about 240000 inhabitants. The temperature was frequently around -40 degrees, both C. and F., as the two scales meet at this low value. I hike in the downtown main streets, visiting also the local museum, the dock onto Lena frozen river and the Permafrost institute. GO

Yakutia (or Jakutia / Sakha / Sakha)

From Yakutsk to Tomtor via Ust-nera (YOU ARE HERE)

A flight of about two hours brings me from Yakutsk to Ust-Nera, a town of approximately 8000 inhabitants, from where the tour continues to Tomtor by car, crossing valleys, mountains and villages having the lowest winter temperatures of the northen hemisphere. This area is also sadly known for gulags and executions during the first half of past century.

Tomtor

Tomtor

Tomtor is a small town situated inside the "Pole of the Cold", the world's coldest inhabited place, where the January's average temperature is -50 degrees centigrades. I visit the old gold mine where nice ice sculptures are kept, and an hot spring where most water never freezes. GO

Oymyakon

Oymyakon

Oymyakon is a village made of many charming small houses, where about 1200 people live. It is here that the lowest temperature of the northen hemisphere, -71,2°C, was recorded. I went on a frozen river with a fisherman, to see how ice fishing is carried-out, spending a few hours out at -52°C. I've also visited a nearby horse farm. GO

Winter in Siberia

From Oymyakon to Yakutsk via Tyoply Klyuch

The distance from Oymyakon to Yakutsk is about 1000km and requires two full days by car, with an overnight in Tyoply Kluch. Again, wonderful frozen mountains, valleys, lakes and river, where everything is white. A visit to a meteo station is also included. GO

Moscow tour

Moscow

Under an intense snowfall, I visit the Moscow's downtown area, including Red Square, St. Basil cathedral, Kremlin and the church of Christ the Savior. I move using mainly the very efficient subway metro, having also very beautiful stations.GO

Winter equipment

Trip dossier, equipment for cold weather, photography at low temperatures

Such adventurous trip requires some care about planning, especially for choosing the right equipment for protection from cold weather and in preparation to take pictures in such extreme environment. In this section there are useful information about the equipment used, a short description of the Himalayan Suit by The North Face and how my digital camera Panasonic DMC-FZ20 has performed in the cold. A short trip dossier is also present. GO

Visit http://www.yakutiatravel.com for tours to Yakutia

 

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Contacts - LUCIANO NAPOLITANO

 

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